Indian Bridal Head Jewellery Explained: Maang Tikka, Passa, Sheeshphool, Mathapatti and Jhoomar

Indian bridal head jewellery is a set of separate ornaments that sit in different places: the maang tikka at the centre parting, the sheeshphool or mathapatti across the hairline, the passa at the side of the head, and, for a groom, the kalgi on the safa. The names overlap between regions and shops, so this guide sorts them by where each one sits, what it is for and how they combine. Sirini makes all of them as gold-plated imitation jewellery in Mumbai.

The quick answer: where each piece sits

• Maang tikka: a chain from the hair parting with a pendant resting on the centre of the forehead.
• Sheeshphool or sheesh patti: a wider band or chain across the top of the forehead along the hairline, from ear to ear, usually more elaborate.
• Mathapatti: a band or chain worn across the forehead, sometimes with drops at the sides. The name is often used for a close relative of the sheeshphool, and it shifts between regions and shops.
• Passa: a curved or fan-shaped ornament pinned on one side of the head, near the parting or hairline. Jhoomar or jhumar is a similar hanging headpiece, and some passas are sold with a matching jhoomar.
• Kalgi: the plume-style ornament a groom pins at the front of the safa or turban.

Maang tikka

The maang tikka is the forehead ornament most people picture first. A single-chain style is the lightest and works with most hairstyles. Double-chain, or jhoomar-style, tikkas fan out from the crown for fuller coverage. A longer drop suits a longer face and a shorter drop closer to the hairline suits a rounder one. Read the full maang tikka guide or browse the maang tikka collection, which runs from Rs 680 to Rs 3,424.

Sheeshphool, sheesh patti and mathapatti

These sit wider than a tikka and fill the forehead, so they are kept for the wedding day or a heavy festive look. Pin the centre first, then anchor each side. The tikka chain often runs through the centre of the sheeshphool, so the two are worn together rather than as alternatives. The sheeshphool, sheesh patti and mathapatti guide explains the naming in more detail, and the sheeshphool collection is priced from Rs 2,200 to Rs 7,680.

Passa and jhoomar

A passa sits on one side, unlike the centred tikka and the symmetric sheeshphool. Wear it on the side where you part your hair and keep the other side lighter, with a tikka at the centre, so the look is balanced. The passa guide covers styles, face shape and hair, and the passa collection runs from Rs 1,400 to Rs 7,680.

The groom's head ornament: kalgi

A kalgi is pinned upright at the centre front of the safa, set last once the folds are in place. It usually matches the stones of the groom's mala. See the groom's kalgi, mala and brooch guide and the kalgi collection, from Rs 1,312 to Rs 5,680.

How to combine them without crowding

• Tikka alone: the simplest option, and the usual choice for a festive occasion.
• Tikka and passa: frames the whole hairline rather than only the centre, and is a very common bridal pairing.
• Sheeshphool and tikka: a full forehead frame. Keep earrings simple, such as a chandbali or a stud, so the face does not get crowded.
• Sheeshphool, tikka and passa together: some brides do this, though many choose just two pieces. Do a trial with your hairstylist before the day.

Match the stone colour and finish across every piece, and to the necklace set. The bridal jewellery checklist shows where head jewellery sits among the rest of the pieces, and the bridal collection brings them together.

What Sirini makes, and what it is not

Every piece is gold-plated imitation jewellery on a brass or copper base, handcrafted in Mumbai in Kundan, Polki-style and Meenakari work. It is not real gold, diamond or precious stone. Shipping across India is Rs 200, and free on orders of Rs 2,999 and above, with Cash on Delivery on eligible orders, and Sirini ships to 28 countries abroad for a flat Rs 1,400. Exchanges are accepted within 7 days for defective, damaged or wrong items, and change-of-mind returns are not offered. Terms are explained in the Indian jewellery glossary.

Common questions

What is the difference between a maang tikka and a sheeshphool?

A maang tikka hangs from the hair parting with one pendant on the centre of the forehead. A sheeshphool is a wider ornament across the hairline from ear to ear. They are usually worn together.

What is the difference between a maang tikka and a passa?

A maang tikka sits at the centre of the forehead, while a passa sits on one side of the head, near the parting or hairline. Many brides wear both for balance.

Is a mathapatti the same as a sheeshphool?

They are close relatives. A mathapatti is usually a band or chain across the forehead, sometimes with drops at the sides, while a sheeshphool often sits slightly higher along the hairline and is more elaborate. The names overlap between regions and shops, so read the photographs and description before you order.

Can I wear a tikka, passa and sheeshphool together?

It is possible, but many brides choose two pieces to avoid crowding. Tikka and passa is a very common pairing. Try the combination with your hairstylist before the wedding.

What is a jhoomar?

A jhoomar, also spelt jhumar, is a hanging headpiece similar to a passa. Some passas are sold together with a matching jhoomar as a set, so check the product page to see exactly what is included.

Is Sirini head jewellery real gold?

No. It is gold-plated imitation jewellery over brass or copper, set with Kundan-style and Polki-style stones. It is not real gold, diamond or precious stone.